Wanwan

Behind a traditional storehouse facade of dark timber walls, step past the noren curtain into a relaxed, gently subdued dining room. Located in Meguro 2-chome, the izakaya Wanwan fills its menu with neat arrays of small plates centered on seasonal produce and sea-fresh delicacies tailored for drinking.

Taking a seat, the natural place to start is with the painstakingly prepared seafood snacks and seasonal vegetables. Offerings like the tairagai isobeyaki, pairing grilled pen shell with toasted nori, tender simmered common octopus, or roasted octopus suckers finished with fragrant fat show off the varied character of coastal ingredients. Raw selections such as Akashi octopus sashimi and line-caught horse mackerel provide clean seafood freshness that pairs seamlessly with a draft beer or sake.

Vegetables are the kitchen's other pillar, highlighting produce through thoughtfully varied preparations. Leafy greens steeped in gentle broth, like fukuro-na or Malabar spinach, sit alongside sweet bites like deep-fried Gold Rush sweetcorn and rich avocado fried Rikyu-style with toasted sesame. Spring brings its own rhythm with dishes such as grilled young bamboo shoots, bitter wild honna greens, and rustic homemade butterbur miso, offering a grounded taste of the changing seasons.

The finishing dishes after an evening of drinking are equally considered. Fish-bone broth adds depth to the refreshing steamed rice with wild sansho pepper and myoga ginger, while finely grated fresh wasabi rice and fried rice with baby sardines and shiso provide vibrant contrasts. For a lighter conclusion, chilled Inaniwa udon noodles or a bowl of clear soup provide an easy, satisfying note to close on.

Wanwan operates from 18:00 to 23:30 Monday through Saturday, and is closed on Sundays. Whether nursing a quiet drink alone or settling in over several dishes with a party of 2 or 3, it offers an unhurried setting for an evening anchored by wholesome cooking.